The Mountains of My Life (Modern Library)

This book is a must read for collectors of the genre and anyone interested in alpine history. From the humourous but life threatening hitting of his thumb whilst hammering in a piton on the first ascent of the Whymper Spur, to his tortuous arrival at the Gamba hut after the tragic sequence of events on the Central Pillar of Freney during which four climbers perished - it is all told in a human and compelling way.

In the final section of the book there is a detailed analysis of the K2 controversy which is disected from every angle, from the ascent of the mountain to the ensuing court case ten years later. These chapters for me were a little dry but formed a contrast to the previous alpine adventures. However, this shouldn't put anyone off reading such a thought provoking book about one mans achievements and life adventures. One is left in no doubt that Bonatti was the most accomplished and prolific alpinist of his era.

He has a great story to tell and he forces you to keep turning the pages, as, in his life not only was he stalked by controversy but whilst 'on the heights' he seemed to be a magnet for storm and bad weather.