The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine

The British Climbing Establishment, a number of who knew and revered Mallory, were outraged. Had this foreign interloper no sense of history, no shame? The statement that proved his total lack of knowledge of this epic saga, the critics patiently explained to the media, was his claim that proof could still be found on the body of one of the climbers--he said it would be Irvine-who should still be found on a snow terrace on Mt. Everest at 8200m. If somebody would only go and look, the camera Irvine was carrying would hold pictures of the fatal climb, perhaps even showing a photo from the summit.

The clamor rose a few decibels more when in 1980 Holzel reported to the NY Times that the body of "an English dead" had indeed been found on Everest's North Face at 8100m by a Chinese porter who--get this--died the day after reporting his find. Another "Everest Ghost" the British public exclaimed. "How convenient" the establishment elders muttered. In 1986, Holzel and Salkeld mounted an expedition to the north side of Everest to search for the body at 8200m. They failed in all respects save one. On literally the last day of their three-month expedition, Holzel managed to meet with the tent-mate of the person who claimed to have found the English dead. This claim had been strenuously denied by the Chinese Mountaineering Association, and other government officials. But the tent-mate admitted that Wang Hung-Bao had said he had indeed found "a foreign mountaineer."

This classic book contains two exciting stories: First there is the story of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine who were last spotted seemingly a few hours below the summit of the world's highest peak, which raised the glorious possibility that they had perhaps reached the summit before perishing on the descent. Salkeld in particular has tracked down and discovered a trove of unpublished letters, and theirs is the first modern reading of Mallory the man, a reading much necessitated in view of the previous biographies, many of which verge on hagiography. And there is the second story, equally fascinating, of the authors' heroic efforts to find out what did happen. It is this story, a modern tale, that shows how large a role is played by luck when the ambition is there to pave its path.

There are now a slew of new books on this stirring subject-most based on the Simonson Expedition of 1999 which discovered the body--not of Irvine--but of George Mallory himself, and--astonishingly--discovered it exactly where Holzel had predicted nearly 30 years earlier. The Simonson book "Ghosts of Everest" is also required reading for anyone interested in this famous saga. What I found the most interesting in "The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine" was the acuity of their theorizing and their genius at selecting certain facts from amidst a welter of conflicting data, facts that seemed strange selections at first but which then turn out--10 or 20 years later--to have been exactly correct. Holzel's ideas about who Wang found (Mallory and not Irvine) once again go against the current wisdom; but his description of the deductive reasoning by which he arrived at his latest conclusions are alone worth the price of the book. As for the rest of it--well, it was an instant classic when it came out in 1985. With the several new chapters and a forward by Expedition Leader Eric Simonson, it certainly deserves a central spot on every adventurer's bookshelf. As historical detective work--THE central spot.


A fansinating read   February 15, 2000
4 out of 4 found this review helpful

The tale of Mallory & Irvine is a fascinating one and Holzel & Salkeld book does the tale justice giving a thoroughly entertaining description of all the expeditions and of Mallory's life. What lets this book down is an over analysis of the facts and what could have happened to Mallory & Irvine, and I would have liked to have known more about the discovery of the body of Mallory, the important news, which is skipped over.

Overall a book well worth reading.


A fascinating insight into an almost forgotten journey   January 6, 2000
4 out of 4 found this review helpful

I am the first to admit that, apart from remembering their names from some story in a schoolbook, I knew very little about George Mallory or Andrew Irvine. This book was chosen because I thought it would be an interesting read during my lunch hours. It has proved to be a fascinating tale of the bravery of two individuals who, in their time, pushed the limits of human endurance. The dry start to the book is worth persevering with, because once the actual expeditions are described it gives a great insight into the minds of those pioneers of climbing, and the barriers, both physical and political, that they had to overcome. This was read prior to the discovery of Mallorys body, and all the speculation that has produced, but I, for one wished at the end that there was some proof they had made it. A great read for anyone interested in the pioneering spirit that seemed so common (Scott, Schackleton etc) in the early twentieth century.